Sunset at Rann of Kutch

Kutch nahi dekha toh kuch nahi dekha

After my three-month meticulous planning and scheduling, we were all very excited to watch sunset at Kutch. We didn't stay at the Rann utsav tents where there would have been more cultural events and programmes taking place because I read a lot of bad reviews about the tents there. So we hurried back to the car from Bhuj Chhatedi even though we enjoyed roaming around the tombs. I insisted the cab driver to take us to Dhordo village first even after his continuous ranting that there is nothing in the village except some houses. I remembered reading a blog about an art and craft exhibition in one of the villages near the white desert and since Dhordo is the closest village to Rann of Kutch I didn't want to miss it. Even if we couldn't spot the exhibition, I wanted to see a Kutchi Village and its people before stepping into the white desert.

As the driver said, there was nothing in the village except some houses and he showed no interest in telling us or driving us to the exhibition that I was talking about. I usually like to interact with the cab drivers and the local people to get to know more about the people and their culture but this guy was already irritated because of his boss so I didn't push him much.

Just wandering in the village

A typical Dhordo hut

Although the Great Rann of Kutch is open for visitors throughout the year, the Rann utsav happens every year during the winter only - from November to February. Most people schedule their visit to the utsav during the full moon day so that they can see moon rise and moon set at the desert but I always prefer travelling and exploring during off-season, that way I get to enjoy the place when it is not crowded. So we travelled towards the end of January, after the full moon day of the month. There is a little Rann of Kutch similar to the great Rann, only not so big, near Kutch. Very rarely some tourists visit there to enjoy the solitude in the desert. But since we went at the end of January, great Rann was not crowded as much for the sunset yet there were enough to set the mood for the utsav even towards the end of the season.

Sunset at Rann of Kutch, Gujarat 

There was Border Security Force at the entrance of the Rann of Kutch utsav since the desert was on the border of India and Pakistan. Each cab had to buy a permit to enter the desert and to enjoy the utsav. There is a lengthy road stretched in between the desert and on either side of the road there are Kutchi handicraft stalls put up by Kutchi people. There are camel carts from the entrance to the podium at the desert so if you are tired to walk miles you can use this facility.

Entrance to Rann of Kutch and tent city

The great Rann of Kutch is a desert of white salt marsh completely covering the entire region up to the horizon, filling your eyes with nothing but pure bright white. It runs for about 40 km beyond the podium. The salt marshes have a lot of quick sand in them naturally forming a barrier between India and Pakistan at this stretch. We were too excited to take photos and go on a camel ride that we did not go to the podium to have a 360 degree view of the desert. We left it for another day when we would come back to witness the sunrise at the Rann.

Our camel Salman and its caretaker

White up to horizon

Hubby and me enjoying the sunset on white desert

Eat out: We had lunch and evening snacks at some of the most authentic Kutchi restaurants in the white desert. I try pani puri anywhere I go so I tried one later in the evening from a vendor standing just outside of the desert, not in the exhibition. It was not so great as I expected.

On the way to Kutch from Bhuj, there are many shops on the highway that sell 'maava' - a Gujarati equivalent to the milk sweet we have down south called 'paal gova'. For just 10rs, this delicacy melts in your mouth and keeps you wanting more!

Restaurants at the exhibition

Little things: Enjoy the handicraft from Kutchi people. This is the best place to buy quality handicrafts at a cheap rate. So if you are planning on shopping in Bhuj, this is a better option than Bhujodi where most people suggest shopping. You can bargain a bit in Rann of Kutch exhibitions but the prices are already nominal anyway, unlike Bhujodi.

Stalls at the exhibition by Kutchi people

Kutchi handicraft

Tip from the tip: There are ATMs in the Rann of Kutch exhibition. Buying the permit takes time so try to reach the entrance before 5 pm so that you can witness the sunset at the white desert on time. Since Gujarat is in the West, sunrise and sunset happens a little later (just by few minutes) than you'd expect. Even though it is warm during the day, it gets a little chilly as the day progresses. Be prepared with a sweatshirt or a shawl; winter nights in Kutch/Bhuj are cold.

Souvenir: I bought a very pretty and heavily hand-worked wall hanging from a Kutchi girl who hand knit the whole thing herself. I also bought a Kutchi style embroidered cloth handbag, mirror work purses and some handmade earrings.

Handmade Kutchi wall hanging

Photo Credits: Srivathsan Ravi
Visit: 25.01.2018